Sironafur Creations

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Care Guide

A more in-depth care package is included, as well as specific washing instructions. This is just an overview that can apply for most all fursuits, costumes and props.


First off, you should wear underarmor under your suit! This helps prevent sweat from getting to the suit, and protect your skin from the rough seams and backing of the fur.

BRUSH BRUSH BRUSH! Brush your suit after you are done wearing it, before you wear it, and during or after you wash it. High friction areas such as under the armpits, the bottoms of the hands and feet, between the legs, and the butt will need the most attention as they are most prone to matting. A Slicker Brush, which is provided for all fursuit commissions, is recommended. Brush gently! Don't rip through the fur, and brush down with the grain of the fur, with the handle pointing up! The teeth of slicker brushes have a curve, make sure the curve goes gently through the fur, you don't want to de-shed your suit!

Slicker Brush

You can use a slicker brush for brushing all of your fursuit. Make sure to brush downwards, handle up, so you don't de-shed the fur!

Double-sided pet brush

You can use this brush as well. Make sure to use the metal side only in heavily-matted places. Use the soft side of the brush for your regular brushing. A soft sided brush is better for brushing heads, but a slicker brush works just as good.

Brushing helps bring the shine back in a suit!

           Disinfectant Spray

Disinfectant is very important and should be used after every suit outing. No one wants to hug someone who smells like fish, no matter how cute you are!

You need 3 things for your mixture; rubbing alcohol, water, and either essential oils or Odoban. 1 half of the bottle should be the rubbing alcohol, the rest should be filled with water, and a little bit of space at the top should be your oils or Odoban. The oils/Odoban help mask the alcohol smell, and Odoban also helps kill off the bacteria, if you need a little more help killing the smell.  This will be your disinfectant for the whole fursuit, body, head, paws, etc. We also recommend spraying it on your under armor after suiting.

A small travel spray bottle like the one pictured can last for a very long time; you don't need much for it to work.

Spray this inside of the suit by the armpits, around the neck, and anywhere there is elastic, such as the ends of the arms or legs. Be sure to spray the inside of the head as well, especially the inside of the muzzle. Most furs can also have the disinfectant sprayed on the fur itself, to kill off any bacteria that may have gotten on the fur. Specific disinfectant instructions will be provided with your suit.

DO NOT use products such as Febreze, or any other store-bought mixture for masking smell. That's all most do is mask the smell. Factory-made disinfectants have also been known to break down or bleach out different furs and degrade the foam. With this mixture you know that there's only 3 ingredients, and it will kill the bacteria instead of masking it. There are many tutorials online as well, if you wish to look for other ideas.

During suiting

Put the suit on carefully. It will take some time to zip up, but don't force it through. You may have to separate the fur for the zipper to ease through. Fur caught in the zipper can break the teeth and make the zipper useless. It is easier to have someone else help you get your limbs in.

Wearing the balaclava or cap provided will help protect the inside of the head from sweat and grease, and Lycra, spandex or sports underarmor is recommended to wear under the suit, to both protect the suit from sweat, and to prevent the backing and seams of the fur from itching you.

Mud and grass stains are hard to get out, especially if its white fur, so be careful.

After suiting

Carefully take off the suit, starting with the head, paws and feet. Unzip the suit carefully, and gently peel if off and step out of it. If possible, take out any padding and turn the suit inside out to air out, and disinfect. The same can be done for the handpaws. If you're at a con or somewhere with limited space, this is the quickest way to dry it out. If you have a small fan, turn the neck of the head inside out and set the fan inside the head to air it out, and disinfect.

Disinfect the  handpaws and feet, and brush out everything once it's dry. A wooden clothes hangar is recommended to support the weight of a full fursuit.

From there you can store your suit either hung up in a cool, dry, dark place to avoid sun fading, or folded up and stored in a cool, dry place. NEVER store the suit until it is fully dried. Suits can be stored in a tote or space bag, but be sure to take it out and let it hang every so often.

Never set anything on top of padding or your head. Keep your head either on a shelf or in a strong box, so it doesn't get flattened.


In a car, store your suit in a hard sided tote or suitcase, and set the head someplace where it won't have a chance of getting crushed. A back seat or the passenger side is a good place, if you don't have any passengers.

Travel by plane is difficult, it is easiest to mail your suit to someone at the location you are going to, or the hotel. If you can't, find a large, hard-sided travel case. As an added precaution, if your suit gets stopped by the airport x-ray (because its a giant stuffed animal) print out instructions and a photo on how to re-pack your suit. Sometimes they don't pay attention, but it doesn't hurt. Taping your suit won't help much either, if it gets pulled over for inspection, they'll cut it out to look through it. You can also use a vacuum bag if you can't find a suitcase big enough to fit your bodysuit in, just make sure to let it air out as soon as possible to prevent crinkling in the fur.

Have the head in a carry-on bag, or have it be your personal item with you. It's the most fragile piece of the suit, and at least you'll have the head with you! Comply with airport security, you don't want the head to be taken away! A small travel bottle of disinfectant should be in a carry on, and you shouldn't have any trouble.


Props vary depending on size, thickness and material. Most props are made from wood, though some are made from plastics or cloths. A personalized care guide will be included with your prop, but generally wood props need to be cleaned and kept in its case when not in use, to avoid chipping paint and causing splintering. Depending on what paint is used, the wood may need to be re stained or polished every so often. Dry it thoroughly after being cleaned to prevent warping or splitting. Plastics vary, but most can be cleaned with soap and water, and cloths can be hand washed or washed in a washing machine on  delicate cycle.

Keep props dry and out of direct sunlight, and make sure to store them carefully when traveling or moving to prevent them from breaking.


Costumes, like everything else, vary greatly depending on fabrics, materials and dyes, and as such a complete care guide will be included with your costume.

Most costumes can be machine washed on delicate, or hand washed. All cloth costumes will be tested for durability in a washing machine before being shipped. Armor depends on what material is used, and most armor can only be spot cleaned gently with a rag. More difficult costumes can be shipped back to us for a thorough cleaning if we cannot help you via e-mail.

All fursuits, costumes and props can be shipped back to us for a repair at any time. Please e-mail us at with what part was broken or damaged, and please include all pieces you have. Any repairs made within the first year are free minus shipping costs one way, and any additional repairs down the road will vary in cost depending on what needs to be done.